How to choose a collectible watch
Learn how to choose a collector's watch: a complete guide to assessing reference, movement, condition, and serial, with practical tips and references to the models most prized by collectors.
Entering the world of collectible watches is an experience that requires attention, knowledge, and critical thinking. It is not enough to be guided by personal taste: it is necessary to know what really makes a piece interesting on a technical, historical and aesthetic level. Collectible value is not just a matter of brand, but the result of many factors acting synergistically: rarity, authenticity, state of preservation, importance of the movement, and soundness of the secondary market.
The reference: the identity of the watch
Every watch has a reference, which is the code that identifies the model. This is not just an abbreviation, but a crucial element for collectors: it encapsulates information about the original configuration, the year of manufacture, and variations in the dial or bracelet. For example, reference 5513 identifies one of the most long-lived and beloved Submariners, produced by Rolex between 1962 and 1989. Knowing the references allows you to make comparisons between ads, past auctions and official catalogs. The best platforms-such as Chrono24 and WatchCharts-provide advanced filters to explore the market based precisely on the reference.
The movement: technical heart and soul of the collection
The mechanical movement is one of the elements that most affects the value of a watch. Manufacture calibers (such as those made by F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne or Grand Seiko) are prized for their technical sophistication, while mass-produced movements, while reliable, do not enjoy the same recognition. Collectors often look for watches with original calibers, never replaced, and with intact finishing. For chronographs, it is important to know whether they are iconic calibres such as the Valjoux 72 (vintage Daytona) or the Zenith El Primero, the first automatic chronograph movement in history.
Between two watches that are identical on paper, the one in better condition-or rather, more "authentic"-will always have a higher appeal. A typical example: an Omega Speedmaster with an original dial and natural patina may be worth much more than one that has been restored or polished. Italian Watch Spotter and Boglietti Gioielliere emphasize the importance of avoiding overly cleaned watches with polished cases or parts replaced without documentation. The presence of coeval accessories-box, warranty, original tags-can also make the difference between a good purchase and a missed opportunity.
The serial number: consistency and traceability
The serial, often engraved on the case or between the lugs, makes it possible to verify the year of manufacture and compare it with the watch's characteristics. For example, a Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 with serial R should have a "floating" dial, produced for only a few months in 1987-1988. If the dial or hands are not consistent with the serial, these may be posthumous substitutions. For collectors, this consistency is critical: it affects the value and the possibility of reselling the watch in the future.
Where to start: recommended models for beginners
For those taking their first steps, it is useful to orient themselves to models with solid market value and good availability. Chrono24 and Italian Watch Spotter point to some historic "entry points" such as the Omega Speedmaster Professional, the Rolex Explorer 14270, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790 or the Tudor Black Bay 58. These models combine strong identity, build quality, and a liquid secondary market, making them perfect for building the foundation of a collection.
Having a clear budget is the first step in not being driven by impulse alone. It is better to aim for one well-chosen watch than to buy multiple mediocre models. Also, patience is a key skill: finding the right specimen, in excellent condition and with a traceable provenance, can take time. A careful collector does not chase bargains, but builds a coherent collection over time, made up of pieces with history and potential.
Choosing a collector's watch is a practice that combines emotion, research, and rigor. Knowledge of references, movements and condition is the basis for any informed decision. But what really makes the difference is the ability to read between the lines: an authentic scratch can tell more than a perfect polish. An experienced collector is not looking for the perfect watch, but the right one. And often, the most valuable is not the most expensive, but the one that has the most to tell.
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