Vintage or New Handbags: Which Is Best for Collecting?

In the world of handbag collecting, one of the first—and most important—questions is simple:

Should you choose a new or vintage model?

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Both offer unique opportunities, but with distinct considerations. Understanding the differences is key to building a thoughtful, long-lasting collection.

The Allure of Vintage: Uniqueness, Patina, and History

Vintage bags come with a story. They reflect past collections, discontinued finishes, and beautifully aged leather.

According to the Baghunter 2023 report, vintage Hermès and Chanel bags in good condition have appreciated by an average of 12% annually over the past five years.

Vintage also gives access to colors and materials no longer in production—think 1980s Hermès Kelly in box leather or early Chanel 2.55 bags with original red grosgrain lining. In many cases, these are true archival rarities.

The Downsides: Wear, Repairs, Missing Documents

Vintage bags must be evaluated carefully. Signs of wear, uncertified repairs, or missing documentation can lower collectible value. Some vintage models may also be harder to authenticate without expert help.

As Finarte notes, “A vintage bag in excellent condition, with full packaging and readable codes, can be more valuable than a new model from the same brand.”

The New Option: Impeccable Condition and Instant Appeal

Buying a new bag—especially directly from a boutique—guarantees perfect condition, complete accessories, and immediate authentication.

It’s the ideal choice for those wanting to preserve the bag’s integrity from day one.

Moreover, some iconic models increase in price annually:

Chanel’s Classic Flap saw a 60% price hike from 2019 to 2023, while Hermès supports resale prices with controlled scarcity.

New Doesn’t Mean Standard

Even among new bags, there are limited editions, seasonal colors, and special collaborations. These factors, when chosen wisely, offer rarity and future value.

It’s important to know that some brands do not issue invoices or official certificates, making the seller’s documentation crucial in these cases.

So, Which Should You Choose?

• Vintage is ideal for those seeking historical pieces, character, and authenticity.
• New is perfect for those who want certainty and pristine condition.

Many seasoned collectors build a mixed collection, blending archival models with new boutique releases, chosen for their rarity and long-term value.