Why collecting watches can generate value over time
Why are luxury watches among the most sought-after goods on the secondary market? Analysis of collectible value and the most valued models.
Collecting watches is not just a matter of aesthetic taste or passion for mechanics-it is also a form of value preservation over time. The most desirable watches have shown, in many market phases, an extraordinary ability to hold or increase their value, especially when it comes to discontinued models, historical references or pieces with rare features.
According to McKinsey, the second-wrist market will exceed $35 billion by 2030, with steady growth fostered by scarcity of supply, the timeless appeal of historic models, and growing global demand. The best performing models belong mainly to three brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, which also have the best value retention rate, according to Chrono24.
An emblematic example is the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610: sold for about 4,000 euros in the early 2000s, today it easily exceeds 10,000 euros in good condition. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 has seen an even more striking revaluation, surpassing 130,000 euros in 2022 after the announcement of its discontinuation. The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202ST, now discontinued, also doubled its average value between 2020 and 2022.
In addition to the economic factor, there is a strong cultural and emotional component: collecting watches means cherishing stories, designs, and technologies that represent true watchmaking milestones. Some pieces have entered the collective imagination because of their association with icons of cinema, sports or politics: just think of the Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman," sold at auction by Phillips for $17.7 million, or the Speedmaster Professional worn by the Apollo 11 astronauts.
The revaluation of a watch depends on several factors: limited run, manufacture movements, originality of components, aesthetic condition and completeness (original box and documentation). Even minor variations-such as a tropical dial, an anomalous signature, or a rare configuration-can greatly affect the value.
Finally, the popularity of online auctions and the growing role of digital marketplaces such as Chrono24 and WatchBox have made the market more accessible and transparent, helping to solidify the perception of the watch as a safe haven asset. The trend is also supported by investment boutiques and fractional ownership platforms such as Collecto, which make it easier to participate in this world.
The key is always selection: studying the market, recognizing trends, and choosing models that have demonstrated resilience and appreciation over time. In this, watch collecting combines passion and awareness like few other categories. Knowledge, careful selection and attention to quality are the pillars of a collection destined to appreciate over time, both economically and culturally.
