How to recognize an authentic watch and guard against fakes

he market for collectible watches is becoming increasingly sophisticated. In parallel, the counterfeiting phenomenon has reached unprecedented levels, involving the industry's most iconic brands-from Rolex to Omega, Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet, and even Richard Mille and Cartier. Today's replicas are often so well made that they mislead even the most experienced enthusiasts.

Counterfeiting: a growing parallel market

In 2023, the European Union seized more than 152 million counterfeit items with an estimated commercial value of 3.4 billion euros. According to the EUIPO, watches represent one of the highest risk categories, right after clothing and accessories. In Italy, the Guardia di Finanza confiscated more than 6 million euros in counterfeit watches and jewelry in 2022 alone.

Among the most frequently counterfeited brands are:

Rolex: the absolute leader in replicas, particularly Daytona, Submariner and DatejustOmega: Speedmaster and Seamaster are often reproduced in Asia in almost indistinguishable versionsPatek Philippe: replicas of the Nautilus 5711 and Aquanaut are among the most complex and sophisticatedAudemars Piguet: in particular the Royal Oak Jumbo, often copied even in the smallest details of the braceletCartier: the Tank and Santos models are frequent imitations, especially in jewelryRichard Mille: fakes are expensive, but made from shoddy materials and sold for tens of thousands of euros online

Visual analysis and quality of detail

Each maison has a unique style. Patek Philippe, for example, uses very clean, almost invisible finishes, while Richard Mille focuses on composite materials and skeletal designs. Any aesthetic inconsistencies-such as slightly out of alignment indexes, shifted graphics, or opaque glass-can indicate a replica.

Authentic watches are made of noble materials: 904L steel, titanium, forged carbon, solid gold. Fakes, while trying to replicate aesthetics, are lighter and less "solid" to the touch. An original Royal Oak 15202ST weighs about 125 grams; many replicas stay under 100g.

Original movements are often manufacture (such as Patek's Caliber 240 or Audemars' 3120). Fakes mount low-quality Asian calibers (e.g., Seagull, Miyota). In addition, finishes - côtes de Genève, pearling, blued screws - are almost always absent or poorly imitated.

• Rolex: laser-engraved crown on glass at 6 o'clock, numbered flange
• Cartier: "Cartier" micro-engraving on digit VII of the dial
• Omega: anti-cloning code on case back visible with loupe

Replicas fail to replicate these details as accurately, even when they look visually similar.

Bureaucratic verification

Every authentic watch has a unique reference and traceable serial number. There are official databases (e.g., WatchRegister, CheckSerialNumber.com) that allow verification and can report stolen or lost watches. Some brands, such as Cartier and Omega, offer online registration to validate the warranty.

The absence of original documentation (boxes, cards, booklets) is not always synonymous with a fake, but should prompt extra caution. Scammers today create fake boxes and certificates that are identical to the originals. For this reason, it is always recommended:

Consult platforms that offer authentication (Chrono24, Watchfinder, WatchBox)Have the watch inspected by an independent lab before purchase

New technologies: Watch Scanner and AI

Chrono24 has developed Watch Scanner, an AI-based visual recognition system that allows a watch to be compared with the original database by simply taking a photo. It is useful for initial screening, but is not a substitute for physical verification.